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Elke Von Freudenberg
Celebrity Eyebrow Specialist | NY . LA
Eyebrow Services
The Brow Collection
Brow Blog
Represented: Punch Artists, Inc.
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Much like how you use styling products to whip your hair into a lovely hairdo, eyebrows need a little something extra to help them retain the shape you “style.” The rule of thumb is that thicker, coarser eyebrow hairs call for a strong wax to hold their shape, while thinner eyebrow hairs respond better to a lighter product, such as a brow gel, to keep them how you want them without weighing down the hairs.
So, when it comes to shaping eyebrows, what’s the true difference between brow gel and wax, and how do you use them to shape eyebrows properly? Let’s take a look.
Brow Gel
Brow gel is the lighter of the two and is meant for eyebrow hairs that are thin and light. You’ll find that most brow gels come in a mascara-wand format; using the spoolie, brush on the gel through the eyebrows in the direction you want the brow hairs to go, and then let the gel dry. The best brow gels won’t turn gray after they have dried and don’t leave arches feeling crunchy or stiff. To help you determine whether each of these pitfalls may occur, check the texture of the gel and how thick it is. A quality brow gel should be thinner in consistency (to avoid a hard, crunchy feel). Also, brow gel should leave a glossy—never matte—look to the hairs.
Application: For brow gel, draw in the eyebrow first using brow colors (shadow or pencil), and then apply brow gel after; this helps lock-in the color and makes your design water-resistant.
Brow Wax
Brow wax is thicker, and as the name implies, it has a waxy texture. This type of arch-molding product is made for thicker, coarser and wavy brow hairs. Since these hairs are usually harder to keep in place, you need stronger holding power, which brow wax affords. Available in different shades, brow wax comes in either pencil form or in a jar.
Application: To apply, use a clear wax that won’t interfere with any colored brow shadow or pencil. Apply using either fingertips or my favorite, a clean spoolie brush. If you use a brush, brush the wax through in the direction you want the eyebrow hairs to go.
Tip: You can apply colorless brow wax either before or after brow color; each method affords a different result. For bolder color, apply brow wax first through the brow hairs, then apply brow shadow with a straight or angle brow brush. You’ll notice that the brow color goes on a tad darker and with a sharper line; the brow wax gives you a nice base. If you desire a softer look, apply brow color first, then set and seal the shading with brow wax.
Makeup Artist Trick: I love layering products on my spoolie. First, I pick up the clear brow wax with my clean spoolie brush, then I dip the brush into my brow shadow. Finally, I brush the mixture through through the eyebrows in the direction I want the hairs to lay. Do this lightly, and after a few tries, you’ll know exactly how much of each product you need to get the right mix for you. –Elke Von Freudenberg
–Elke is a celebrity eyebrow specialist and makeup artist, beauty blogger, creator of The Brow Collection and The Model Brow Service, and owner of Elke Von Freudenberg Salon. Her work has appeared at the Academy Awards, Golden Globes, in numerous magazines and fashion shows, and on the faces of celebs such as Kate Moss and Blythe Danner.
_Waxin’ Gellin’ Makeup Artist Elke Von Freudenberg Weighs In on Brow Wax and Gel Beauty Etc. on Flickr.